Nammude Kozhikode - my Calicut

Nammude Kozhikode

• Nammude Kozhikode
• Kozhikode has given its English name, Calicut, to `calico', the fine variety of handwoven cotton cloth said to have originated from this place. The word 'teak' has also originated from Malabar. Kozhikode was also Vasco da Gama's first halt in India. He set foot on the sands of Kappad beach, north of today's city, on 27 May 1498 A.D., a landing commemorated by a small stone monument at the beach. The word khaki also is said to have its origins here.

• Kozhikode is an important trading centre for spices and tiles, and hunting ground for famous delicacies.Beypore, 11 km from Kozhikode, is a small coastal town famous for centuries as a ship-building centre and still is known today for its country crafts called uru built by traditional shipbuilders. Beypore is still a favoured destination for Arabs shopping for large boats. It is widely believed that the craftsmen of Beypore made Cleopatra's barges. The head craftsman apparently never used sketches.

• Getting here : There are over a dozen night buses to choose from, between Kozhikode and Bangalore. Goa, Kochi & Coimbatore are well connected by rail. Direct flights to major destinations in India and the Middle East. Now a days it is cheaper to fly to Coimbatore or Kochi and take a train. Now well connected with the outside world by Emirates. Domestic connectivity is poor.

• Learning : Kozhikode can certainly boast of premier institutions of higher learning such as the National Institute of Technology (NITC) and the Indian Institute of Management (IIMK).

• Influence : Basel Mission (Five protestant missionary societies whose roots are in German-speaking Swiss) had their base at Kozhikode.  Logans Malabar manual is the book to be read to know more about Kozhikode. William logan, a Scotsman was the collector of the Malabar province.

• Attractions:
• The first man made canal in India happens to be Conoly canal (natural flush)
• SK Pottekkad wrote travelogues of his trip to Africa and the middle east (1949) You can see his bust being displayed at Mananchira square.
• Visit a tile factory at Feroke is a must
• Tussera weaving centre at Beypore is famous for its handloom weaving technologies.
• Sunday mass at English church (First to have sermons in a foreign language) in Nadakavu or at CSI (1850's) near Mananchira square..
• Visit the Barracks at West hill to get that colonial feel. The officers mess.
• Kozhikode has four masonic lodges. Oldest was consecrated in 1886. English, Irish and Indian.
• Dr. Kurien of utterly butterly fame was born near to YMCA (Now city mall)
• There is a wonderful science centre for children. The only one of its kind in Kerala
• Enjoy a sunset barbecue at Casa Marina (Closed !!).
• Wood fired peasant food (veg) @ 'Archana', Gandhi gram, cherooty road.
• If you have the gut, indulge in the local rice brew (Kunnamangalam fame)
• Boiled fish/SP fish, n Nazeem's chicken omelet @ Cosmo club.
• Fish lovers paradise - Crabs, Oysters, Mussels, Squid and clams.
• The best black pepper in the world - Romans called it Black gold !!
• Hari Vihar - Relaxing ayurvedic therapy to calm your nerves or have a swig of Dasamoolarishtam - a special combination of ten herbs with the ability to act on a wide range of health problems.
• Watch the dramatic and colourful ritual dance form ''Theyyam'' performed in its natural surrounding
• The two mile beach front is good for morning walks.
• Gaze at the crumbling piers or look up the light house (Past grandeur ?)
• Visit Gujarathi street to get a glimpse of the ancient spice trade.
• The 800 year old Bhadrakali temple behind big bazar (Cherooty road) bowls you over.
• Jalak resort - past Grasim Industries, Mavoor.
• CVN Kalari for martial arts and therapeutic ayurvedic massage. High recommended
• Annual Kozhi vettu at Kaniyath temple (my ancestorial place) , Kunnamangalam.
• Halwa (Sweet meat). Banana, Black,Coconut,Badam,Red,Green and Yellow. The black is particularly interesting as it has medicinal properties (Dasamoola Arishtum)

• Food and drinks
• Crum fry chicken and Indian chicken chilly / Chicken uppma @ Cosmopolitian club
• Try the fish kombathu / Mango prawn / leaf baked pomfret with appam at Paragon
• Sarsaparilla (Nannari)  Serbat - Plain, soda, egg, milk, milk egg (Opposite to Paragon).
• Pomegranate or bitter gourd juice at X'tian college bus stop.
• Chandappans - This third generation banana ''chip'' maker offers many flavours @ IG road junction. Divine black halwa - rated
• Biriyani (Bombay hotel - renovated - as good as old ? hmmm...) - Fish,Chicken & mutton, Zains - mussels, Prawn (Zains)
• The Sharjah shake makes an ideal mini meal at Mananchira square - classic. Rated
• Munch a Shwarma while you take a stroll to Link road and railway station. Rated
• Mezban - Asma Tower serves yummy Chinese and North Indian (Chef has moved to Taj !!.. still good)
• MMU at Thangals road (via Francis road) serves appam /puttu with beef stew/ Botti - now closed :(
• The small shop next to the Elathur bridge. The sting-ray curry with tapioca.
• Pepper crab at Seaqueen hotel
• Buffet @ Hotel Hyson is a steal.
• Rajakeeyam / Combo meal 2 at Sanjeevanam and the seasonal food fests are a delight / detox food (Darn. closed !! Whats happening to Nammude Kozhikode $#$#^$#^#$^#$%^)
• Dhakshin the veg for Channa battura
• Top form restaurant - IG road. Divine Fish biriyani. Rated !!
• Coffee beanz - trendy place for food. Appams. rated.
• Sarangi (East Nadakkavu) Avoid - sucks big time. Service with an attitude. Crappy food.
• Momos / Aloo Jeera at IIMK canteen.
• Lovely foods - nitc campus. Fulka, paneer butter, lassi - Rated
• DELI Dhaba - MM Ali Road. Excellent North Indian grub
• Kingsbay - Cheese cake and blueberry sauce. Rated
• mGrill - Pasta, seafood Thai fried rice, choice of desserts
• Hotel Gopika - Puttu and Fish curry

Shopping

• Khadi gram - honey gooseberry, tea and cinnamon
• Elements - organic store - The forest honey is brilliant. Also sells excellent coconut based scrub soap, bamboo rice, table rock salt and till seeds.
• Custom built professional speakers for a song and bargain hunt for antiques (hangling lamps, uruli, iron box, ceremonial vessels etc) at Oyitty road.
• World class handwoven fabrics from Comtrust. Trusted by the Whitehouse, Lufthansa,Shyam Ahuja and others. Also available at the high streets of London.The color Khaki orginated here. (Closed !!)
• Spices @ Krishnan - Kallayi road

Driving tours

• The Kozhikode - Ooty route via Kalhatty ghats is undoubtedly the most breathtaking of all in South India.
• Kozhikode - Mavoor - Edavanna - Mukkam - REC - Kunnamangalam (IIMK) can be done in an hour. Drive along the banks of chaliyar river via the new ooty road.
• Kozhikode - Tellicherry -Iritty - Coorg - Kushal nagar - Nagarhole - Tirunelli - Chundale - Gundelpet - Mudumalai -Masanagudi - Ooty - Coonoor - Coimbatore - Kodai - Munnar - Edapalli - Kodungaloor - Chettuva - Chavakkad - Ponnani -Tavannur - Kuttipuram -Kozhikode.

• Kozhikode - Malappuram - Perintalmanna - Mannarghat - Attapadi (Silent Valley) - Anakatti tribal village - Coimbatore.

• Kozhikode - Thottilpalam - Pakramthalam - taruvanna - Vythiri - Calicut (210 kms). The drive is simply great.

Historic Walks

Start at Mavoor road Junction and walk towards Mananchira square,past Asoka hospital (1935), CSI church (1850?) BEM school, Police HQ, Pattala Palli, M. Square,Sweet meat street, Hanuman temple, parsi Anju Amman baug, over bridge, jain temple, Big Bazar, Badrakali temple, court, oyitty Road, halwa bazar, antique corner, crown theater, Comtrust, Town hall, Head post office, Mother of god church, Treasury and back. - 2 hours

The Sunday Flea market at SM street / MP road is worth a try.

Further reading

The coast of Malabar

The Trail